Q&A: Monica Vinader
The jewellery designer and founder of the eponymous brand on cutting gemstones, collaborating with Caroline Issa and working with her sister
Interview: Jackie Modlinger
Portrait: Mark Luscombe-Whyte
Suitably, in the heart of Marylebone Village, the initials MV slot seamlessly into one another, denoting the monogram of jewellery designer Monica Vinader, whose eponymous boutique opened on Marylebone High Street in August—the newest of a select portfolio of London stores.
MV aficionados include the likes of the Duchess of Cambridge, actors Kate Winslet, Emma Watson and Naomi Watts, and supermodel Bella Hadid, but this is not a jewellery brand whose appeal is limited to those with the means of a royal or a Hollywood doyenne. Think not much in-your-face bling, rather affordable, delicate collectibles. A visit to the boutique is a fun, playful experience. Monica’s signature pieces include friendship bracelets, whose coloured cords have different meanings: red represents luck; gold, generosity; silver, strength; rose gold, harmony. Stacking rings are set with vibrant gemstones, while medallion pendants dangle from adjustable chain link bracelets and necklaces. Ethically sourced adjustable diamond rings twinkle from chains of sterling silver, 18 carat gold or rose gold vermeil. There are, too, alphabet letters, ID tags and charms—take your pick from over 300 designs, the newest addition being Ronnie the Rat, symbolising the Chinese year of the rat.
The defining qualities that underpin the collection—an eye for design and a ceaseless drive to create—were embedded in Monica during her childhood in San Sebastián, in Spain’s Basque region. “Both my parents were a very strong influence on me growing up,” she says. “They had a huge work ethic and ran an antique and auction house business specialising in British pieces to sell back in Spain. I got their entrepreneurial gene.”
So too did her younger sister Gabriela, who has taken on the role of chief operating officer of the business. “We had an amazing childhood, very loving parents who encouraged us to be ourselves, which I think gave us huge confidence to do anything we set our mind to,” says Monica. “They also gave us incredible opportunities to travel and open our horizons. I think our partnership has worked because we are both very entrepreneurial and very dynamic, with strong, shared values. We are also very different, with different interests and complementary skills.”
Initially schooled at the Lycée Français de Madrid, the Vinader sisters then moved to the UK, continuing their education in Oxfordshire. In 2002, while working in South America with husband Nick Zoll, Monica started making bespoke pieces for private clients. In 2000, the couple had bought a home in Norfolk, and Monica began selling jewellery at the annual Burnham Market craft fair. The couple moved back there permanently in 2006 after their daughter Scarlett, now 13, was born. “She loves jewellery, and has her very own style, but no interest in my business,” says Monica. Despite her own daughter’s indifference, there is no shortage of people who are extremely interested in Monica Vinader’s jewellery. So, over to her.
Where did your penchant for jewellery come from?
Growing up, my mother had a very bold collection of Art Deco and 1940s jewellery; she was very generous, letting me wear them at an early age and sharing her appreciation and enthusiasm for design and craftsmanship. Mum was never too precious about them herself. She encouraged me to enjoy and engage with them normally, and this generous attitude has had a profound effect on my outlook, shaping my brand vision of designing and creating accessible, instantly wearable jewellery. She also sold and collected antique objects in gold vermeil, a form of gold-on-silver craftsmanship made popular in the 19th century. She introduced me to it when I started making jewellery.
How did you adjust to the move from Spain to the UK?
It was a pretty organic transition. We had a very international education, attending the French Lycée —French was my second language after Spanish—and we spent lots of time in London, where my father lectured at the London Business School and my mother was buying antiques for her business. I spent summers with an English family to learn the language and did my A-levels here. I moved here when I was 16 and I’m a British national. I have a company in the UK and my daughter is British.
When did you begin designing jewellery?
I have always had a passion for art and jewellery, but at art school I focused on sculpture, drawing and decorative arts, so I only started designing jewellery with my first job. After studying decorative and fine arts at the City & Guilds art school for four years, I went to work in an art gallery, because I thought I wanted to be in the art world. By chance, I then got a job with a jewellery company, which is when I really started learning how to produce and market jewellery. That job also took me to Birmingham’s jewellery-making district to learn about casting and cutting. Afterwards, I continued making my own pieces, selling them privately, before I opened a small studio in Norfolk.
Can you remember the first piece you designed?
In the beginning, I was making mostly bespoke pieces for friends and family; I had so many women come through our doors looking through my drawers of gemstones, and we would create pieces together. I think that this really gave me a flavour of what women wanted and how they wished to shop for jewellery. Our first designs were the friendship bracelets—the idea of the cord was inspired by holiday finds in the streets of Mallorca, when you come back with armloads of corded bracelets. I wanted to incorporate that look into something a little bit more put-together, but still fun. The whole premise of my brand is about everyday luxury, wearing jewellery every day.
What inspires you?
Travel, art and architecture are my sources of inspiration. They all feed the creative process. I carry a sketchbook with me everywhere I go, so when I travel locally or go to exhibitions and museums, that’s when I often get to sketch rough ideas or concepts. I have travelled quite extensively, exploring landscapes, colours, architecture and sculpture unique to India, Mexico, Argentina or Italy.
What are you favourite gemstones to work with?
It’s so hard to choose! We have been cutting our own stones since the beginning; it was always part of the plan, so over the years we have become much better at getting the right quality of rough gems, from the right mines and the right sources. We work with the same artisan cutters that we did 10 years ago, so they understand our cut and signature, but the rough aquamarine and lemon quartz nugget pendants from our Caroline Issa collaboration are truly special.
Do you have any personal favourites in the new collection?
It is hard to pick favourites, as nothing is launching that I do not absolutely love and want to wear, but I am slightly obsessed by the rough-cut gemstones of our Caroline Issa collaboration, and our new Alta earrings, as I can add and take away links and charms, so can really adapt them to lots of occasions. Also my new Riva diamond adjustable chain ring, as I can wear it on all my fingers depending on what else I want to style it with.
Tell us about your collaboration with Caroline Issa—how did this come about?
The collaboration is rooted in our shared love for colour, self-expression and joyous style. We’ve been friends for a long time, and have a mutual admiration for each other’s work and aesthetic. I’ve worked with Caroline’s creative agency, Tank, for years now on brand campaigns, because I trust her eye and her understanding of my brand implicitly. As my team were playing around with the idea of doing a collaboration for the first time, it felt natural for me to work with Caroline, as I knew we could create something really special together that was different from anything I would have designed on my own but still felt connected to the brand’s identity, and I think that really comes across in the collection.
The vision for the collaboration was for it to be a vibrant celebration of the raw beauty and colour of natural gemstones. From ametrine to aquamarine, each stone is rough-cut by hand meaning that every piece is completely unique and full of personality. We drew inspiration from playing with a variety of raw gemstones; there is something very mesmerising, calming and energising all at once when in contact with gemstones.
Do you intend to do further collaborations?
Yes, we have a very exciting one which we will announce in a couple of months.
What are your bestsellers?
The Fiji and the Linear friendship bracelets are right up there, as is our Alta collection with clasping links which you can customize. The Riva diamond kite ring is a constant favourite.
Where do you see the brand in the jewellery market?
When we launched our brand, our aim was to fill a gap between fashion and fine jewellery for women to self-purchase jewellery they could wear every day. I think that demi-fine jewellery space is now much bigger, and consumers have really embraced it.
Are there other designers you particularly admire?
Line Vautrin—I love the power of her sculptural pieces.
Why did you choose Marylebone as the location for your newest store?
To be honest, Marylebone was top of my list from day one. It has taken me 10 years to be able to open here, so this is a special location for me. I love the village atmosphere of the area and the curation of stores. Also, Marylebone High Street is home to one of my all-time favourite shops in the world: Daunt Books.